Hydroxyproline

Good

Humectant

Hydroxyproline at a glance

  • A nonessential amino acid
  • Critical component of collagen
  • Works topically as a humectant
  • Helps hydrate skin and boost the barrier

Hydroxyproline description

Hydroxyproline is a nonessential (the body makes it) amino acid used in cosmetics for its skin conditioning benefits. When used in skin care, it can be either animal-derived or synthetic. Hydroxyproline, alongside proline and glycine, is one of the major components of collagen. It plays an integral role in collagen synthesis, collagen stability and the maintenance of collagen’s structure. This means hydroxyproline contributes positively to wound-healing, skin’s overall firmness, structure (through the extracellular matrix) and health. When topically applied, hydroxyproline primarily works as a humectant, drawing moisture to skin and boosting overall hydration. Although hydroxyproline’s derivatives and peptides (primarily N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline) have research proving their anti-aging properties when used topically, hydroxyproline alone doesn’t have strong research proving such. Outside of skin care, hydroxyproline is mentioned often in skin-improving collagen peptide supplements. When ingested, these supplements turn into hydroxyproline peptides which can help skin health and hydration, promote a youthful appearance and contribute to the creation of fibroblasts. Use levels of hydroxyproline in skin care products range from 0.1–2%, whether rinse-off or leave-on.

Hydroxyproline references

  • Cytotechnology, February 2024, pages 139-151
  • Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, April 2021, pages 652-660
  • International Journal of Food Science and Technology, June 2019, pages 1,976–1,980
  • Current Protein and Peptide Science, November 2016, pages 596-602
  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, December 2015, pages 291-301

Peer-reviewed, substantiated scientific research is used to assess ingredients in this dictionary. Regulations regarding constraints, permitted concentration levels and availability vary by country and region.

Ingredient ratings

Best

Proven and supported by independent studies. Outstanding active ingredient for most skin types or concerns.

Good

Necessary to improve a formula's texture, stability, or penetration.

Average

Generally non-irritating but may have aesthetic, stability, or other issues that limit its usefulness.

Bad

There is a likelihood of irritation. Risk increases when combined with other problematic ingredients.

Worst

May cause irritation, inflammation, dryness, etc. May offer benefit in some capability but overall, proven to do more harm than good.

unknown

We couldn't find this in our ingredient dictionary. We log all missing ingredients and make continuous updates.

Not rated

We have not yet rated this ingredient because we have not had a chance to review the research on it.